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July 25, 2005 -
A culinary oasis from the heat - Twenty Manning

I love a road trip.  Always have, always will.  This past Thursday, Philly Foodies had a dinner party.  So, of course, you know what that meant; fill up the car, pay a toll or two, and less than two hours later I am in Philly, checked into my hotel, and ready to eat and drink.

Ah, Philly in the summertime. The sun feels like it’s exploded, and the asphalt is melting beneath my feet.

You see, I decided to forgo the driving and walk to my latest restaurant adventure. Although it was only a seven-block walk, once I arrived at my destination for the evening, Twenty Manning, it was as if I had arrived at a desert oasis.

The interior is decorated minimally - spartan some might even say - with a cool, clean look and an Asian influence. Now, to the bar for a drink before dinner. I love a drink before dinner; it's a chance to look around and get a feel for the place. Vodka, rocks, please, with a twist.

Asian accents embellish New American fare at Twenty Manning. The menu at this stylish neighborhood bistro owes much to the Vietnamese heritage of Chef Kiong Bahn. Seafood, vegetables, and even the beef is prepared in an almost classic French, Vietnamese fashion.

I am a soup fan. I can have it year-round, so I started with the crispy wonton soup. The shrimp wonton is light, delicious, and crispy; having been deep fried, rather than steamed, just prior to its addition to the homemade chicken consommé base.

Then, I saw something on the menu I had to try: beef ceviche. I have had beef carpaccio before and many different seafood ceviches, but never a beef ceviche. Am I glad I ordered this! The beef - yes, raw beef - is “cooked” in a jalapeno-lime vinaigrette, with a mix of sweet pickled shallots, roasted almonds, and mixed spring herbs. The result is a rich, silky texture and flavors that just roll around on your palate. The dish was served with chopsticks, so brush up on your skills and watch the splashing of drops. My jacket is now at the dry cleaners.

When Chef came out to see if we were enjoying our experience, I remarked that I had to try the beef ceviche because I was a big fan of “raw” foods, including sushi, beef carpaccio, beef tartare, and ceviches.

Hearing this, Chef sent out, gratis, a plate of his house smoked tuna sashimi to sample before my entrée arrived. The tuna is smoked in black tea and served with Japanese seaweed salad, green papaya, and wasabi and soy. The wasabi, in an almost liquid form, presents as drops on top of the tuna sashimi. My taste buds were in heaven, thanks to this incredibly light, yet almost pure, preparation of tuna.

Chef goes to market each day and buys only what is needed for that day’s menu unless he sees something new or unusual and adds it as a special. This evening, was one of those evenings, and rabbit was on the menu. The preparation was simple, yet elegant. The rabbit loin was simply pan-seared and served with Yukon gold potatoes. Meat and potatoes - my kind of meal.

I have eaten rabbit before and enjoy the lean, lightly flavored meat very much. I even have some in my freezer at home, but Chef’s simple preparation was better than any I’d had before or could hope to prepare myself.

Chef asked if I could identify the vegetables presented with the rabbit. Well, they were green. I took a guess and said, "Spinach? Japanese cabbage?" Chef just smiled and explained it was daikon, a Japanese radish.

For the entrée, I decided to eschew another refill of my vodka on the rocks and ask Billy, the manager, for a wine recommendation. He produced a California red that was the perfect match: Sangiovess, Call Il Chiaretto, from the Consentino Winery in Napa Valley.

Ah, yes, one of my favorite parts of a meal - dessert. If the restaurant has it, I always order a cappuccino and usually select something chocolate for dessert. However, as I was having such a grand experience already, I threw caution to the wind and ordered a bread pudding served with pistachios and vanilla ice cream. (Okay, I cheated a little bit; the bread pudding was prepared with bananas and bitter chocolate.)

I just had one question after my meal was over: why wasn’t Twenty Manning slammed? They should be. It is now one of my favorites. They have a beautiful bar, a small lounge area, which is slowly transformed into Lunge 20 at the evening progresses for those who are just having drinks or some small dishes, their hostess and servers are all young, energetic, and professional, and their chef is a genius. Come to this gem before word gets out and you can’t get a seat.

And, don’t forget to ask if Chef has any specials!
   
  Appetizers: $4 - $15
  Entrees: $14 - $23
  $30 Price Fixed Menu - 3 Courses (Avail. Sun. - Thurs. only)
  Twenty Manning (www.twentymanning.com)
  261 S. 20th St. (between Locust & Spruce Sts.)
  215.731.0900
 

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