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A culinary oasis
from the heat -
Twenty Manning
I love a
road
trip.
Always
have,
always
will.
This
past
Thursday,
Philly
Foodies
had a
dinner
party.
So, of
course,
you know
what
that
meant;
fill up
the car,
pay a
toll or
two, and
less
than two
hours
later I
am in
Philly,
checked
into my
hotel,
and
ready to
eat and
drink.
Ah,
Philly
in the
summertime.
The sun
feels
like
it’s
exploded,
and the
asphalt
is
melting
beneath
my feet.
You see,
I
decided
to forgo
the
driving
and walk
to my
latest
restaurant
adventure.
Although
it was
only a
seven-block
walk,
once I
arrived
at my
destination
for the
evening,
Twenty
Manning,
it was
as if I
had
arrived
at a
desert
oasis.
The
interior
is
decorated
minimally
-
spartan
some
might
even say
- with a
cool,
clean
look and
an Asian
influence.
Now, to
the bar
for a
drink
before
dinner.
I love a
drink
before
dinner;
it's a
chance
to look
around
and get
a feel
for the
place.
Vodka,
rocks,
please,
with a
twist.
Asian
accents
embellish
New
American
fare at
Twenty
Manning.
The menu
at this
stylish
neighborhood
bistro
owes
much to
the
Vietnamese
heritage
of Chef
Kiong
Bahn.
Seafood,
vegetables,
and even
the beef
is
prepared
in an
almost
classic
French,
Vietnamese
fashion.
I am a
soup
fan. I
can have
it
year-round,
so I
started
with the
crispy
wonton
soup.
The
shrimp
wonton
is
light,
delicious,
and
crispy;
having
been
deep
fried,
rather
than
steamed,
just
prior to
its
addition
to the
homemade
chicken
consommé
base.
Then, I
saw
something
on the
menu I
had to
try:
beef
ceviche.
I have
had beef
carpaccio
before
and many
different
seafood
ceviches,
but
never a
beef
ceviche.
Am I
glad I
ordered
this!
The beef
- yes,
raw beef
- is
“cooked”
in a
jalapeno-lime
vinaigrette,
with a
mix of
sweet
pickled
shallots,
roasted
almonds,
and
mixed
spring
herbs.
The
result
is a
rich,
silky
texture
and
flavors
that
just
roll
around
on your
palate.
The dish
was
served
with
chopsticks,
so brush
up on
your
skills
and
watch
the
splashing
of
drops.
My
jacket
is now
at the
dry
cleaners.
When
Chef
came out
to see
if we
were
enjoying
our
experience,
I
remarked
that I
had to
try the
beef
ceviche
because
I was a
big fan
of “raw”
foods,
including
sushi,
beef
carpaccio,
beef
tartare,
and
ceviches.
Hearing
this,
Chef
sent
out,
gratis,
a plate
of his
house
smoked
tuna
sashimi
to
sample
before
my
entrée
arrived.
The tuna
is
smoked
in black
tea and
served
with
Japanese
seaweed
salad,
green
papaya,
and
wasabi
and soy.
The
wasabi,
in an
almost
liquid
form,
presents
as drops
on top
of the
tuna
sashimi.
My taste
buds
were in
heaven,
thanks
to this
incredibly
light,
yet
almost
pure,
preparation
of tuna.
Chef
goes to
market
each day
and buys
only
what is
needed
for that
day’s
menu
unless
he sees
something
new or
unusual
and adds
it as a
special.
This
evening,
was one
of those
evenings,
and
rabbit
was on
the
menu.
The
preparation
was
simple,
yet
elegant.
The
rabbit
loin was
simply
pan-seared
and
served
with
Yukon
gold
potatoes.
Meat and
potatoes
- my
kind of
meal.
I have
eaten
rabbit
before
and
enjoy
the
lean,
lightly
flavored
meat
very
much. I
even
have
some in
my
freezer
at home,
but
Chef’s
simple
preparation
was
better
than any
I’d had
before
or could
hope to
prepare
myself.
Chef
asked if
I could
identify
the
vegetables
presented
with the
rabbit.
Well,
they
were
green. I
took a
guess
and
said,
"Spinach?
Japanese
cabbage?"
Chef
just
smiled
and
explained
it was
daikon,
a
Japanese
radish.
For the
entrée,
I
decided
to
eschew
another
refill
of my
vodka on
the
rocks
and ask
Billy,
the
manager,
for a
wine
recommendation.
He
produced
a
California
red that
was the
perfect
match:
Sangiovess,
Call Il
Chiaretto,
from the
Consentino
Winery
in Napa
Valley.
Ah, yes,
one of
my
favorite
parts of
a meal -
dessert.
If the
restaurant
has it,
I always
order a
cappuccino
and
usually
select
something
chocolate
for
dessert.
However,
as I was
having
such a
grand
experience
already,
I threw
caution
to the
wind and
ordered
a bread
pudding
served
with
pistachios
and
vanilla
ice
cream.
(Okay, I
cheated
a little
bit; the
bread
pudding
was
prepared
with
bananas
and
bitter
chocolate.)
I just
had one
question
after my
meal was
over:
why
wasn’t
Twenty
Manning
slammed?
They
should
be. It
is now
one of
my
favorites.
They
have a
beautiful
bar, a
small
lounge
area,
which is
slowly
transformed
into
Lunge 20
at the
evening
progresses
for
those
who are
just
having
drinks
or some
small
dishes,
their
hostess
and
servers
are all
young,
energetic,
and
professional,
and
their
chef is
a
genius.
Come to
this gem
before
word
gets out
and you
can’t
get a
seat.
And,
don’t
forget
to ask
if Chef
has any
specials!
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Appetizers: $4 - $15 |
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Entrees: $14 - $23 |
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$30 Price Fixed Menu - 3 Courses (Avail. Sun. - Thurs. only) |
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Twenty Manning (www.twentymanning.com) |
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261 S. 20th St. (between Locust & Spruce Sts.) |
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215.731.0900 |
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