| A Bite of Baltimore |
| An interview series with Baltimore area chefs and restaurant owners |
Brian
Martin
Executive
Chef
Kali's
Court
Restaurant
and
Mezze
Restaurant
Brian
Martin
was only
13 when
he
started
in the
restaurant
business.
In the
23 years
since
those
days of
washing
dishes
and
doing
light
prep
work,
Brian
has
worked
mostly
in
Maryland,
although
he spent
time at
Charlie
Trotters
in
Chicago.
Other
highlights
on his
resume
include
serving
as the
sous
chef at
The
Milton
Inn and
as the
chef who
opened
Preston's
500 and
helped
it win
"Baltimore's
Best New
Restaurant"
in 2000.
How do
you
think
the
Baltimore
restaurant
scene
has
changed?
Baltimore
restaurants
are
using
more
fresh
and
diverse
ingredients
these
days and
also
employing
more
global
and
regional
flavors.
It's
nice to
be able
to go
out now
and
order
something
other
than
crab
cakes
(not
that I
don't
enjoy
them) or
something
buried
under
imperial
sauce!
Where do
you see
the
Baltimore
restaurant
scene
headed?
I see
more
restaurants
on every
level
becoming
more
creative
and
getting
further
away
from the
whole
pre-made
or
ready-heat
foods. I
would
like to
see
Baltimore
give
birth to
a world
destination
restaurant.
I also
see
these
hip new
places
working
their
way from
the
inner
city
hotspots
to
encompass
more of
the
outskirts
of the
city.
How do
your
restaurants
fit into
the
Baltimore
mix?
Kali's
Court is
a
seafood
restaurant
that
utilizes
the
bounties
of the
Chesapeake
Bay. We
use the
freshest
ingredients
the
local
season
offers
and
generally
keep
things
pretty
light as
far as
creams
and
butters
go.
Mezze,
our
Tapas
restaurant,
presents
a menu
that is
almost
strictly
Mediterranean.
It is
filled
with
vegetable,
seafood,
meat,
and
poultry
"small
dishes"
with an
average
price
per dish
of
around
four
dollars.
How do
you
define
your
menus?
Kali's
Court
menu is
a
modern-American
style
seafood
menu
that
tends to
lean
toward
Mediterranean
influence.
Mezze is
a Tapas
style
menu
with a
lot of
inexpensive,
but
fresh,
quality
driven
selections.
A lot of
the
dishes
originated
in
regions
of the
Greek
Islands.
Which
ingredients
are you
using a
lot of
right
now?
Right
now my
menus
are
still
speckled
with
corn,
tomatoes,
crabmeat,
and
other
summer
highlights,
but I'm
starting
to bring
in more
squashes,
mushrooms,
and root
vegetables.
Are
there
any
ingredients
you tend
to
avoid?
I tend
to avoid
most
ingredients
that are
processed
or
pre-made.
I like
whole,
untainted
foods.
Do you
cook
often at
home?
I am a
single,
career-driven
chef in
charge
of two
very
busy
restaurants.
On the
rare
occasion
that I
do cook
at home,
I love
to roast
off a
small
chicken
and cook
some
potatoes
and root
vegetables
with it.
To me,
it is
one of
those
quintessential
"home-cooked"
meals
that I
find
soul-satisfying,
so to
say.
Which
foods/ingredients
could
you not
live
without?
I
couldn't
live
without
aromatic
vegetables
like
shallots,
garlic,
and so
forth. I
have to
include
fresh
herbs,
also.
These
are the
foundations
to
anything
I
create.
Where do
you eat
in
Baltimore?
There
are so
many
great
new
restaurants
in the
area! I
try to
hit one
I
haven't
been to
before
at least
once a
week.
Last
week a
friend
and I
went to
Red
Fish. I
asked
our
server
to tell
the chef
to send
out six
of his
favorite
aps
(three
at a
time).
We ended
up
having
nine or
ten
different
appetizers,
some not
even on
the
menu! It
was
great
food and
a great
time.
I'm also
looking
forward
to
checking
out
Charleston’s
new
menu.
Very
smart
style,
in my
opinion.
I hope
that the
portion
sizes
and/or
"surprise
courses"
are
there!
What’s
your
favorite
comfort
food?
Daytime
to
evening,
probably
pizza.
Evening
to night
time,
probably
a pint
of Ben
and
Jerry’s!
Both
tend to
be about
a once
every
month or
two
occurrence.
Do you
have a
favorite
snack
food?
Unfortunately,
I am
usually
eating
on the
run.
Lately I
seem to
be
pulling
off the
end of a
French
banquette,
putting
some
feta and
red
onion in
it,
drizzling
with
olive
oil and
balsamic
vinegar
and
"wolfing
it
down."
If I
don't
have
time for
that, I
just
grab
some
walnuts
or pine
nuts to
keep me
going.
When it
comes to
food,
what do
you
think
makes
Baltimore
special?
Hmm,
soft-shell
crabs,
crab
meat,
crab
and...the
Forrest
Gump
shrimp
dialogue
comes to
mind. |